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We’d seen the Albanian mountains from Kukës, but we were immediately immersed in them after breakfast at our hotel, the owner of which was a proper character. Europe’s southernmost glaciers were in view as the towering peaks surrounded the route. With Craig at the wheel, we twisted and turned up and down the hills. The roads were interesting, with large ruts appearing regularly. However, the views were astounding. At the top of one peak, we came across what could only be desc

Snow-capped mountains and volcanic peaks guided us towards Prizren, Kosovo’s second city. Parking up, we spotted Rosemary had a flat tyre. That could wait. It wouldn’t be a long job, although we would need a replacement. Prizren With a history stretching back to Byzantine rule more than a thousand years ago, its centre was stunning. A small stone bridge arched over a clear-water river. The 17th-century Sinan Pasha Mosque held sway in the old town, as we browsed trinket stalls