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We’d seen the Albanian mountains from Kukës, but we were immediately immersed in them after breakfast at our hotel, the owner of which was a proper character. Europe’s southernmost glaciers were in view as the towering peaks surrounded the route. With Craig at the wheel, we twisted and turned up and down the hills. The roads were interesting, with large ruts appearing regularly. However, the views were astounding. At the top of one peak, we came across what could only be desc