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Snow-capped mountains and volcanic peaks guided us towards Prizren, Kosovo’s second city. Parking up, we spotted Rosemary had a flat tyre. That could wait. It wouldn’t be a long job, although we would need a replacement. Prizren With a history stretching back to Byzantine rule more than a thousand years ago, its centre was stunning. A small stone bridge arched over a clear-water river. The 17th-century Sinan Pasha Mosque held sway in the old town, as we browsed trinket stalls

Southern Serbia looked beautiful as we powered to the North Macedonia border, where we were slightly stiffed for €50. The border guard didn’t accept our insurance policy as insurance and insisted we bought a green card. We explained that our insurer told us we didn’t need it, but he kept our passports and told us to come back with local insurance. Ian’s haggling was limited. There was a 15-day option for €50 and he asked if there was a one-day pass. There wasn’t. He handed ov