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Snow-capped mountains and volcanic peaks guided us towards Prizren, Kosovo’s second city. Parking up, we spotted Rosemary had a flat tyre. That could wait. It wouldn’t be a long job, although we would need a replacement. Prizren With a history stretching back to Byzantine rule more than a thousand years ago, its centre was stunning. A small stone bridge arched over a clear-water river. The 17th-century Sinan Pasha Mosque held sway in the old town, as we browsed trinket stalls