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Ploughing through the flooded roads of Satu Mare, Rosemary longed for the mountains. She wouldn’t have long to wait. On the road north, the scenery became remarkably alpine. It would be a beautiful drive with no borders, apart from a visit to one. Sighetu Marmației overlooks the Tisa River, the same we crossed in Tokaj. It also overlooks Ukraine. It was a shame to be so close and not go in, especially for Ian, but we opted to play it safe - the news of the Russian drone in Ga

Our intention was bold. We wanted to cross two borders and make it to the eastern edges of Hungary. That would mean crossing the hilly heart of Slovakia. The Monday morning roads were busy and there was constant rain. We passed sporadic glimpses of colour, mostly the fields of blue poppies, grown for the baking industry. Crossing the border into Slovakia, we were immediately met with poor roads - including one that caused a huge roar from Rosemary’s underbelly. This was at Bo