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Emerald rivers, mirror-like lakes, honey stalls and signs for Tito’s bunker guided us through the heart of Bosnia and into Herzegovina. We were back in the land of fervent tourism. The UNESCO World Heritage old town of Mostar was buzzing with throngs of visitors; its cobbles well worn to perilously shiny. But there are many reason why people flock here. It’s beautiful, with real old-world charm evident among its souvenir stalls. Oh, and the Stari Most, the world-famous arched

This was a day of stunning scenery as we travelled between two Balkan capitals. In deepest Montenegro, we turned off the main route and ventured along some of the country’s panoramic roads. The first twisted up and down hills, surrounded by wildflower pastures in Swiss-style landscapes. On the way up Then came the Sedlo Pass. With rugged peaks topped with glaciers and remnants of the winter snow still by the side of the road, it was jaw-dropping beautiful: vast, dramatic and