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With Rosemary carrying us high into the olive-clad hills above Trigier, we got to see this part of Dalmatian coast in all its sub-kissed glory. At a service station, Ian completed the holy trinity of Balkan food. Pljeskavica in Prizren, Ćevapi in Podgorica and Mostar, and Burek in Croatia. Our first destination was a UNESCO World Heritage site, one of Croatia’s most famous natural wonders. Plitvice lakes are understandably famous and, despite staying in tourist-heavy Trogir l

Emerald rivers, mirror-like lakes, honey stalls and signs for Tito’s bunker guided us through the heart of Bosnia and into Herzegovina. We were back in the land of fervent tourism. The UNESCO World Heritage old town of Mostar was buzzing with throngs of visitors; its cobbles well worn to perilously shiny. But there are many reason why people flock here. It’s beautiful, with real old-world charm evident among its souvenir stalls. Oh, and the Stari Most, the world-famous arched

We scarpered in different directions this morning, making the most of a free day. Ian and Jim went to various parts of Sarajevo centre separately, soaking up viewpoints, history and the building atmosphere ahead of Bosnia’s opening World Cup match. Flags adorned cars, most people were wearing football shirts, Dubioza Kolektiv’s anthem was frequently played - and even a Star Wars stormtrooper was getting into the spirit. Jase drove out to the Bosnian Pyramids of the Sun, a sit

We’d seen the Albanian mountains from Kukës, but we were immediately immersed in them after breakfast at our hotel, the owner of which was a proper character. Europe’s southernmost glaciers were in view as the towering peaks surrounded the route. With Craig at the wheel, we twisted and turned up and down the hills. The roads were interesting, with large ruts appearing regularly. However, the views were astounding. At the top of one peak, we came across what could only be desc